Restaurant review - Six by Nico, Spring Gardens, Manchester
PUBLISHED: 10:48 24 September 2019
Nico Simeone's successful 'Six' concept comes to Manchester
I will never get bored of the stunning creations and elements of surprise that come with a tasting menu.
Renowned Scottish-Italian chef Nico Simeone is making sure I continue to be in thrall, with his 'Six' concept. He has created an accessible tasting menu dining experience with a difference. The concept offers a menu theme based on ideas, memories and places, that changes every six weeks, meaning there is no reason you can't visit well... every six weeks!
This is Nico's fourth opening - there are successors in Glasgow, Edinburgh and Belfast, which have showcased enticing themes such as Childhood, The 70's and Sicily. The menu of The Chippie is one that Nico favours the most when he is opening the doors of a new restaurant, a theme that seemed very fitting for Manchester, as it's arguably the home of the first ever chippie.
There are two menus to choose from, priced, £29, vegetarian and meat/fish options and, unusually, you can mix and match courses from both menus. Whilst allergies are asked for on booking, they are not checked on ordering which is a little surprising given recent cases. There is a reasonable drinks list with some interesting wines, but for an extra £26 you can enjoy five matched wines, which really enhances the dishes. 'The Chippie' was a playful trip down memory lane. Starting with Chips and Cheese, a beautiful potato croquette sitting on a parmesan espuna with curry oil. Next up was 'Scampi', deep fried Monkfish cheeks with pea emulsion, herb butter sauce and gribiche. In most Manchester chippies, a steak pie can only mean a Hollands pie, but here it's the tenderest beef shin served with a pungent mushroom duxelle and burnt onion ketchup. We then get to the Fish Supper; cod, confit fennel, samphire, beer pickled mussels and Brandale which gave this a real salt and vinegar feel. The penultimate course brought a little bit of theatre to the table with domes removed revealing the 'smoke' sausages, which were pork bellies presented with a twist. And the finale? Well what else could a good Scotsman serve but a 'Deep Fried Mars Bar' - obviously with a gourmet twist, served with a Caramelia Chocolate Mousse and Orange Sorbet.
Six by Nico, 60 Spring Gardens, Manchester, M2 2BQ, sixbynico.co.uk/manchester 0161 832 1815