Restaurant reviews - Oliver at Bollington Green

PUBLISHED: 16:28 17 September 2012 | UPDATED: 21:53 20 February 2013

Oliver at Bollington Green

Oliver at Bollington Green

Oliver's restaurant in Bollington Green is delightful and will leave you wanting more<br/>REVIEW BY RAY KING

Walk around any town, village and,increasingly, suburban centre, and one is likely to come across a branch of a well-known, branded restaurant.

There is nothing wrong with this; indeed the prevalence of familiar names many conceived in this part of the world and exported round the country - is a sign of success won by consistency, good value and a keen eye for
culinary fashion.

The downside is that ultimately choice becomes somewhat limited, for many successful branded restaurants actually follow a broadly similar trend. Moreover it becomes increasingly difficult for small, independent restaurateurs to compete. So it is always refreshing to find one that is doing just that.

Established a year ago, Oliver at Bollington Green has earned a devoted following and a shedload of online recommendations and after our visit I can only say, deservedly so. It occupies excellently refurbished premises of former ventures. I remember it as Randalls many moons ago, then Bleasdales in a picturesque square of limestone houses in one of Cheshires most characterful large villages. Given that Bollington doesnt really do big brands, Id say Calum and Scott Oliver, head chef, have picked just about the perfect location for their bijou restaurant.

The decor is tastefully understated in cool shades of grey, with purple and silver detail brought out in the artwork and upholstery of the chairs: tables are unclad wood, laid with good quality tableware and though evening is encouragingly busy, service is slick and charming from the arrival of complimentary olive and buttery popcorn nibbles at the start, to the prompt production of the bill at the end.

Apprenticed at 16 to zany celebrity chef Andrew Nutter, Scott later honed his skills in respected Yorkshire kitchens and was appointed head chef of the Woodlands Boutique Hotel in Leeds at the age of 22. His menu at Bollington reflects a passion for local ingredients and he handles them with panache.

I began with a generous portion of plump and delicious black tiger prawns heaped on a toasted crouton of home-baked sun blush tomato bread with dressed leaves and a really impressive sweet chilli sauce lifted by a swirl of balsamic (6.50). Mrs K chose flash seared king scallops inventively served with Chinese-style seaweed, cauliflower pure and baked Parma ham (7.50). Both dishes were very well-conceived and executed and drew top marks for flavour combination and attractive presentation.

My main course was another handsome looking treat: slices of seared canon of Cheshire white face lamb, done perfectly pink and meltingly tender, served on a crouton with Parmesan gnocchi, broad beans, baby turnips and pearls of carrot with a terrific thyme scented jus (19.95). Opposite, my wife heaped glowing praise upon her pan-baked fillets of south Atlantic hake, deliciously firm and white, partnered by crunchy crab and herb fish fingers, expertly judged citrus aioli, roasted baby vine tomatoes and fresh, sea-salty samphire (16.50). We simply could not resist sharing a side order of truffle chips fantastic together with buttered snow peas and shallots for 2.95 a pop.

For dessert we shared a fresh raspberry and brandy snap millefeuille which looked picture-perfect with its accompaniments of milk pure and raspberry and black treacle ice cream (6.25) and it tasted every bit as good as it looked. From a well considered and accessible wine list we drank glasses of Argentine sauvignon blanc (175 ml - 4.90) with the starters and a bottle of lovely malbec (18.10) from the same Aires bodega with the main course.

Oliver at Bollington Green,
22 High Street, Bollington, Cheshire SK10 5PH. Tel: 01625 575058;

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