Restaurant review - Railway Kitchen and Bar, Alderley Edge
PUBLISHED: 00:00 05 May 2017
Copyright 2015 Lucas Smith Photography
I'd heard of the Stock Market's Nikkei Index but not Nikkei food - the fusion of Peruvian and Japanese flavours that has been around for ages in Peru but is now, apparently, one of those dining trends that is making its way into the restaurants of Britain.
It takes considerable skill to pull off fusion foods. I am happy to report that they do it here in style, as I discovered when I went along to the Nikkei-inspired Railway Kitchen and Bar with two editorial colleagues and our health-conscious celebrity beauty columnist, Armand Beasley.
The Railway name may be slightly misleading. I expected a trendy buffet style cafe by the Alderley Edge tracks, but while, with its exposed brickwork and white tiled walls, it’s edgier than some of the restaurants you might find in the golden triangle, you can still quaff a £75 bottle of Laurent Perrier Rose – a temptation we gave into immediately.
We also tried a couple of the gins on offer behind the lovely looking finely-stocked bar, including the foraged flavours of home-grown Macclesfield brew, Forest Gin in its attractive ceramic bottle.
I love, love, love the menu here. Sure, it has the now ubiquitous ‘small plate meant for sharing’ ethos that now pervades every restaurant that’s opened in the last three years but the portions are ample and every dish is so tempting you want to try as many as possible.
You can if you wish, opt for starters, specials and mains in the traditional manner or share some bigger plates. Therein lies the fun that comes from having so many interesting dishes to taste – including plenty of gluten-free and vegan/vegetarian options, which pleased health-conscious Armand.
Smashed avocado (£7) was elevated by the tang of sourdough crispbread and piquant pickled beets, the zing of lime and hint of mint offset the sweetness of roasted squash and mango salad (£7.50) and the earthy fruitiness of a salad of heirloom tomatoes was paired perfectly with a hint of ginger and the crunch of crispy kale (£7).
The Nikkei inspiration is in evidence from the perfectly barely cooked yellowfin tuna. It was as fresh as ocean spray and dipped into a spiced coulis (£9), while in Peru they would have adored the baby aubergine that held together the bold flavours of a creamy garlic -aced tofu served with crunchy candied walnuts and pomegranate (£7.50).
This is the kind of place to come in the evening, as we did, and enjoy time at the bar indulging in the recommendations of the well-informed barman before taking a place at your table, or maybe join a girlfriend for lunch. Whatever you decide you’ll be on the right side of the tracks.
Railway Kitchen and Bar, 7 London Road, Alderley Edge, SK9 7JT 01625 865865 www.railwaykitchen.com