Restaurant review - La Popote, Marton
PUBLISHED: 00:00 22 November 2019
A little corner of France in Cheshire
For people living in a certain corner of Cheshire, La Popote is an institution. Since March 2009, Dutch born Victor Janssen and Scottish wife Lynne have been turning out their delicious plates of the finest French cuisine. They came to Cheshire after running a series of hugely successful restaurants in South Africa and quickly garnered a reputation for superb food. That reputation is one that was cemented by the Good Food Guide recently when La Popote, translated as small cooking pot, was named in the culinary guide along with a handful of other dining stars in the county. But times change, as they inevitably must and the couple have handed over the reins to Parisian Gaelle Radigon and partner Joseph Rawlins. The night we visited both pairs were working together, Victor and Lynne working as a guiding hand.and this new talented couple showing a promising flair for hosting guests and turning out superb dishes.
This is glorious, old school dining at its best serving up the style of cooking that all budding chefs would once have been given a good grounding in. A menu dotted with dishes of lobster thermidor and canard a l'orange as well as desserts of crepes suzette and tarte tartin show a menu heavily influenced by French classics.
The mussels - a high point - were large, meaty and as plump as overstuffed pillows and scallops - a La Popote special - came topped with glossy beads of caviar and cooked in the lightest Champagne beurre sauce. Both were so good we swapped our plates half way through.
Mains were another La Popote classic - a rack of perfectly pink Cheshire lamb roasted with a crust of deep green rosemary and garlic with haricots blancs cooked in a lamb jus. The other main - a tournedos facon la popote - was done with a flourish. The 30-day matured fillet of Hereford prime beef, piquant sauce with mushrooms, Hungarian paprika, red peppers and garlic was flamed at our table in vodka.
Dessert was a shared raspberry millefeuille giving the final nod to French cuisine with this delicate pastry dish. a new menu is on its way with Gaelle and Joseph at the helm this rural part of Cheshire will remain lucky to have La Popote.
La Popote, Manchester Road (A34), Marton, Cheshire. SK11 9HF 01260 224785