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Food review - The Inn at Ness, Neston

PUBLISHED: 00:00 12 December 2014

The Inn at Ness

The Inn at Ness

not Archant

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Venue

It was a rather large pub (The Wheatsheaf) dating back 100 years or so, but for a year it’s been an Italian restaurant, though it still has the proper pub bar. It’s in the quiet, well-to-do village of Ness, and one suspects it depends upon repeat visits from a local clientele.

Menu

Authentic Italian: pizza, pasta and more sophisticated dishes, but with a few nods to pub grub, such as fish and chips. We had starters of king prawns in spicy white wine sauce on crostone (£8.95) - four huge crustaceans in a piquant sauce - and calamari (from a two-course, £12.95 set lunch menu) which was fresh and lightly floured, avoiding the all-too-frequent rubber band syndrome.

Our mains were a solidly flavourful lasagne (from that set menu) and pasta stuffed with lobster in a creamy prawn sauce (£11.95) which was rich and fulfilling, an accomplished bit of cooking. Pick of the desserts was tartufo limoncello (£4.95) - a frozen ball of lemony flavour with a perfect balance of sharpness and sweetness.

Decor and ambience

Airy and pub-like, but tastefully done out in muted greys and aubergine, with a mixture of tables and booths. Piped music was properly Italian - O Sole Mio and the Godfather theme.

Service

Friendly and relaxed. You can tell it’s a family-run concern.

Cost

Three courses each and a few drinks came in at less than £70. Recommended.

The Inn at Ness

Neston Road,

Ness,

Neston

CH64 4AP

0151 336 6336

www.theinnatness.co.uk

Louise Allen-Taylor

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