Food review - The Glynne Arms, Hawarden, Flintshire
PUBLISHED: 00:00 17 September 2015 | UPDATED: 13:00 19 January 2016
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Two hundred-year old inn named in honour of the Glynnes of Hawarden Castle - the family into which Prime Minister William Ewart Gladstone married. Behind the latter-day revival of The Glynne Arms are members of the Gladstone family, Charlie and Caroline, who also own the Hawarden Estate Farm Shop, making this a field-to-plate business.
Unpretentious, hearty, superior gastropub fare with a definite accent on local ingredients. A starter of Menai Strait mussels (£6.50) was a generous portion of large mussels with a more-ish creamy sauce. Chicken liver pâté was a rich and very liverish slab with toasted sourdough and a shallot and bramley chutney.
A main of rack of lamb (£17.95) came pinkish atop a bed of puy lentils with roast beets, black cabbage and rosemary jus - a very earthy combination. Another main teamed beef fillets with friable, taste-packed roundels of shin beef alongside a chunky burnt onion rosti, girolles, crisped hunks of pancetta and bordelaise sauce (£17.95). It looked like a woodland collation and was full of autumnal flavours.
Puds of vanilla rice pudding and crème brûlée with Hawarden estate strawberries (both £5.95) were both deft examples of comfort food. The menu also featured bar snacks and upper crust sandwiches.
Friendly and efficient.
Three courses, drinks and coffee for two came to around £90.
The Glynne Arms, Hawarden, Flintshire, CH5 3NS 01244 569988