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Food review - The Glynne Arms, Hawarden, Flintshire

PUBLISHED: 00:00 17 September 2015 | UPDATED: 13:00 19 January 2016

The Glynne Arms, Hawarden. Photo by Rept0n 1x, Creative Commons

The Glynne Arms, Hawarden. Photo by Rept0n 1x, Creative Commons

not Archant

Digest this mini review in 60 seconds

Venue

Two hundred-year old inn named in honour of the Glynnes of Hawarden Castle - the family into which Prime Minister William Ewart Gladstone married. Behind the latter-day revival of The Glynne Arms are members of the Gladstone family, Charlie and Caroline, who also own the Hawarden Estate Farm Shop, making this a field-to-plate business.

Menu

Unpretentious, hearty, superior gastropub fare with a definite accent on local ingredients. A starter of Menai Strait mussels (£6.50) was a generous portion of large mussels with a more-ish creamy sauce. Chicken liver pâté was a rich and very liverish slab with toasted sourdough and a shallot and bramley chutney.

A main of rack of lamb (£17.95) came pinkish atop a bed of puy lentils with roast beets, black cabbage and rosemary jus - a very earthy combination. Another main teamed beef fillets with friable, taste-packed roundels of shin beef alongside a chunky burnt onion rosti, girolles, crisped hunks of pancetta and bordelaise sauce (£17.95). It looked like a woodland collation and was full of autumnal flavours.

Puds of vanilla rice pudding and crème brûlée with Hawarden estate strawberries (both £5.95) were both deft examples of comfort food. The menu also featured bar snacks and upper crust sandwiches.

Service

Friendly and efficient.

Cost

Three courses, drinks and coffee for two came to around £90.

Louise Allen-Taylor

The Glynne Arms, Hawarden, Flintshire, CH5 3NS 01244 569988

www.theglynnearms.co.uk

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