Cheshire Life Luncheon - The Coast, Tarporley
PUBLISHED: 00:00 03 November 2017
Cheshire's gents got a taste of true Italia while dining at The Coast, Tarporley, words by Rebekka O'Grady
If you didn’t look out of the window, you could almost be mistaken for thinking you were in a stylish beach-side restaurant on the Italian coast – especially once you tasted the food. But The Coast isn’t by the surf, sea and sand. It’s situated on the quintessential village high street of Tarporley, approximately 30 miles from the nearest coast.
But that’s the beauty of this restaurant; it offers so many different things to whoever is dining there. Whether you want to feel like you’re dining on the Amalfi Coast or experience the buzz of a city centre restaurant in an urban village, The Coast is your place.
‘We wanted to create something for all people that is on their doorstep,’ explained owner, Blair Glen. ‘It’s a place for family dining, early evening, business lunches – whatever. The menu catres for people with different budgets too. We want people to go away and love the time they have spent here, much like when you’re sitting around your family table at home.’
It was the perfect location for the latest Cheshire Life men in business lunch, too. Glasses of Laurent-Perrier champagne clinked during the drinks reception as our guests arrived, eagerly looking forward to the food to come.
It’s just as well everyone came with an appetite, as The Coast had laid out a delicious five course lunch starting with antipasti misti, a delectable looking platter of Italian meats and freshly baked bread.
The cuts of peperonata, sliced coppa, finocchio salami, prosciutto crudo and bresaolo were perfectly paired with green pesto and roasted pepper antipasto. With this platter, I could have easily spent the afternoon sipping on my glass of wine and listening to the vocals of Lucy Hope as she serenaded the diners.
However, we had to make room for our second course, risotto alla scoglio, which translates as seafood risotto. A beautiful piece of pan-seared seabass, crispy skin but effortlessly flaky fish, was placed on top of the creamy rice adorned with mussels, clams and king prawns. Now I definitely felt like I was at the Italian seaside.
The Coast’s head chef, Carl Malcolm has lived in nine countries around the world, including a year spent in Italy. His time spent in the country is evident, with the flavours in each dish a true reflection of simple yet tasty Italian cooking.
The Coast, Tarporley Luncheon
Alice O'Connor, Joanna Long, Julie Long, Blair Glen and Peter Viragos
Steve Griffin, Steve Ratcliffe, Lesley Turner and Lou Lommano
Andy Harrison, Stuart Anderson, Rob Lee and Daniel Furness
The Coast, Tarporley
Bill Morris and James Hughes
Ben Taylor, Blair Glen and Jeff Pearce
Ed Cross and Tim Bird
Lucy Hope, The Chanteuse
Adam Dandy and David Graham
Armand Beasley and Janet Reeder
Tony Carter (Laurent- Perrier), Marie Humphreys, Ben Hinchliffe and Blair Glen
Carl Hazelton, Claire Cooper and James Green
Carl Malcolm, Matt Wilson, Gio Labella and Matt White
To Finish; Dolci Della Coast Frutta di bosco panna cotta and The Coast's Tiramisu
To Finish; Selzione Di Formaggio Italiano Provolone piccante, gorgonzola with toasted walnuts, miele di Toscana, crusty bread, grapes and celery
To Follow; Bistecche Alla Palermitana 8oz locally sourced prime grilled rib eye steak topped with capers, parmesan and a herb crumb. Served with creamy potatoes, buttered tenderstem broccoli, finished with a cherry tomato and basil ragu
To Follow; Risotto Alla Scoglio Mixed seafood risotto with mussels, clams, king prawns and pan seared crispy seabass, finished with grated bottarga
To Start; Antipasti Misti Selection of freshly baked breads, peperonata, sliced coppa, finocchio salami, prosciutto crudo, bresaola and olives with pesto, olive oil and balsamic
The Coast, Tarporley
‘I’m well travelled and I think that has an influence within my cooking,’ said Carl, who joined the restaurant in August 2015. ‘We’re not doing fine dining here, there’s no messing about. It’s all about creating simple dishes crafted from hearty, fresh ingredients.’
Carnivores were mightily satisfied with the next course, bistecche alla palermitana. The 8oz locally sourced prime grilled rib eye steak cooked medium cut like butter and oozed flavour. For an Italian touch, it was topped with capers, parmesan and a flavoursome herb crumb. A rich cherry tomato and basil ragu blended well with the bed of creamy potato, and buttered tenderstem broccoli added a bite.
We were spoilt when it came to the dessert course, enjoying not one but two classic Italian puddings. The Coast’s tiramisu was a triumph, each delicate layer moist and bursting full of coffee and chocolate tones. The frutta di bosco panna cotta was firm but had the perfect wobble, and the raspberry compote added a complementary tartness.
If you had any more room, there was also the option of a cheese board with provolone piccante, gorgonzola with toasted walnuts and miele di Toscana, which came accompanied with crusty bread, grapes and celery. I, on the other hand, had to admit defeat.
The whole lunch was a spectacular showcase of Italian food, proving that you don’t need to hop on a plane to get a true taste of the continent; a drive into a Tarporley will do the trick.
From the menu:
Risotto alla scoglio
Bistecche alla palermitana
Dolci della coast: Frutta di bosco panna cotta and The Coast’s Tiramisu
Selzione di formaggio Italiano
The Coast in Tarporley, 67 High Street, Tarporley, CW6 0DP
Tel: 01829 730 785, www.thecoast.uk.com/tarporley
Lunch and dinner: starters from £5.55, mains from £10.95, desserts from £5.50