3 ISSUES FOR JUST £3 Subscribe to Cheshire Life today click here

The Brasserie on the Edge, Alderley Edge Hotel

PUBLISHED: 12:46 10 May 2015 | UPDATED: 15:44 26 April 2016

Brasserie at The Alderley Edge Hotel

Brasserie at The Alderley Edge Hotel

not Archant

Retro? Classic? However you slice it, the Alderley Edge Hotel’s Brasserie has that certain je ne sais quoi, writes Louise Allen-Taylor

J.W Lees Beer Battered Fish and Chips, Brasserie at The Alderley Edge HotelJ.W Lees Beer Battered Fish and Chips, Brasserie at The Alderley Edge Hotel

Prawn cocktail, ham and pineapple, custard tart...in theory, this could be a visit to a Berni Inn, circa 1972.

That is, of course, the in-joke which has sustained the Brasserie at the Alderley Edge Hotel since it launched three years ago, proudly dragging Chicken Kiev and Black Forest Gateau into the 21st century.

That menu has, naturally, changed since then, but, with a new head chef in the shape of Sean Sutton, the accent at the Brasserie is still on retro classics, but done with real finesse. It’s an astute bit of foodie philosophy to give the Brasserie its own character, distinct from the epic culinary feats being served up just yards away in the fine-dining Alderley restaurant.

The feel of the Brasserie is distinct too: red leather bench seats, wooden tables and chairs, artworks and lighting which scream Gallic influence, and a studied informality.

Prawn and Crayfish Open Sandwich, Brasserie at The Alderley Edge HotelPrawn and Crayfish Open Sandwich, Brasserie at The Alderley Edge Hotel

A starter of chicken liver parfait (£5.25) was a deliciously fine version of a brasserie staple - smooth but with a piquant aftertaste - served with toasted brioche and a tangy sweet onion chutney.

Our second starter of smoked haddock risotto (£7.50) had just the right combination of fishy pungency and silky texture, the bite provided by young leeks, a feisty edge lent by a wafer of parmesan crumb, and the whole thing bathed in the yolk of a slow-cooked egg.

On to the mains, and what more retro, indeed classic dish is there than fish and chips? The Brasserie’s version (£12.50) comes beer-battered in J W Lees ale, and you can detect a pleasing beeriness to that batter, the chips yummily crusty, suggestive of more than one encounter with the oil. A request for vinegar was met with a branded bottle of Sarson’s, just like in the chippie. (Trivia fans may like to know that Sarson’s factory is just down the road from the JW Lees brewery in Middleton...how’s that for local provenance?)

Another retro classic, chicken chasseur (£11.95) came as two generous portions of meat in a rich sauce with a very superior potato gratin.

A dessert of egg custard tartlet with preserved blackberry compote (£6.50) was - to these jaded tastebuds - an idealised version of the very best egg custards of my youth. My companion’s rum-poached pineapple with toasted coconut and kaffir lime syrup (£5.95) was simply gorgeous.

Retro classics done with a modern twist, yes, but the Brasserie proves that some golden oldies are simply timeless. w

The Brasserie on the Edge, Alderley Edge Hotel, Macclesfield Road, Alderley Edge SK9 7BJ, 01625 583033, www.alderleyedgehotel.com

More from Food & Drink

Yesterday, 10:20

The perfect opportunity to experience the very best coffee from the Blue Mountain region of Jamaica!

Read more
Yesterday, 09:28

Alderley Edge-based TV presenter Michelle Ackerley proves she’s hot property as she heads to the Celebrity MasterChef

Read more
Friday, August 17, 2018

Marigot Bay Bar & Cafe, named after Marigot Bay of St Lucia in the Caribbean, offering South Manchester a bar and cafe that takes you through the many tropical islands via chilled island beers, tropical cocktails and some of the finest Caribbean coffee and cocoa available.

Read more
Friday, August 17, 2018

Renowned Cheshire chef Mark Ellis - of Great British Menu fame - is now showcasing his talent in leafy Eyton, just over the border.

Read more
North Wales

Your granny wouldn’t like it but this Manchester restaurant aims to be out of this world, writes Roger Borrell.

Read more
Manchester Restaurants Asian Food

Guests at a Cheshire Life luncheon soaked up a Mediterranean vibe at the glamorous ski-themed restaurant, Piste in Sandbach.

Read more
Cheshire Life Luncheon
Wednesday, August 1, 2018

At Marigot Bay Bar & Café we love a good cocktail!

Read more
Wednesday, August 1, 2018

Fine dining in elegant surroundings makes Pier Eight at the Lowry a destination dining restaurant you’ll want to visit time and again, says Kate Houghton.

Read more
Thursday, July 26, 2018

In Brazil, Picanha is the very best cut of meat, famed for its succulent texture and exceptional flavour. It’s from this celebrated cut that the authentic Brazilian restaurant takes its name.

Read more
 
Great British Holidays advert link

Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to the following newsletters:

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Our Privacy Policy

Topics of Interest

Food and Drink Directory

Subscribe or buy a mag today


Local Business Directory

Cheshire's trusted business finder

Property Search