Restaurant review - The White Horse Restaurant, Denbighshire
PUBLISHED: 00:00 22 June 2017
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Sixteenth century inn down narrow lanes in a small hamlet between Denbigh and Ruthin with views of the Clwydian Range. A lovely drive from Cheshire.
Modern British, substantial dishes using local seasonal produce, plus baguettes which punters rave about. I tried three very accomplished courses. Buffalo mozzarella came with ripe black figs, a crisp and peppery wild rocket, toasted pine nuts and a pleasingly runny and aromatic basil pesto (£6). A main of pan fried crispy skinned duck breast was not, as presented, very crispy, but was a good combination of smoky, earthy, ripe flavours with mounds of savoy cabbage, smoked bacon, broccoli, orange and apple puree, a red wine sauce and a huge bowl of roasted carrots on the side (£15.95). Pud was a belter: banana fritters with extremely crunchy honeycomb, banana ice cream, little grains of bee pollen and a puddle of golden syrup (£5.50)
Decor and ambience
Olde worlde pub with modern splashes of colour. Low ceilings, roaring fires, shuttered windows, old wooden furniture, gnarled timbers.
Three courses for two people plus a couple of drinks, would be a little over £60.
The White Horse Restaurant, Hendrerwydd, Denbighshire, LL16 4LL