<div style="display:inline;"> <img height="1" width="1" style="border-style:none;" alt="" src="//googleads.g.doubleclick.net/pagead/viewthroughconversion/1028731116/?value=0&amp;guid=ON&amp;script=0">
6 ISSUES FOR £6 Subscribe to Cheshire Life today click here

Restaurant review - The Dog Inn, Over Peover, Knutsford

PUBLISHED: 00:15 08 August 2013

The Dog Inn, Over Peover, Knutsford

The Dog Inn, Over Peover, Knutsford

not Archant

You’d have to be barking mad to leave a legal career to run pubs, wouldn’t you? Maybe not, because former barrister, John Chaplin, and his team at the Dog Inn in Over Peover are doing just fine

Lemon tart and rasberry sorbet Lemon tart and rasberry sorbet

You could say that John Chaplin, general manager of the historic Dog Inn in Over Peover, has been called to the Bar for the second time.

After 20 years working as a barrister in Manchester, he decided on a dramatic change of career in 2007 and switched his calling to the bar at the Corn Mill in Llangollen as deputy manager. Underneath his wig and gown the lawyer had been nursing a passion for cooking and hospitality for some time.

See j-peg for precise caption See j-peg for precise caption

We first encountered the Dog more than 25 years ago and then, as now, this was both a traditional village pub catering for local regulars and a destination with a reputation for good food for visitors from much further afield. Clearly then, Kalton & Barlow, the Cheshire pub group that made its mark with the Swan at Tarporley, the Crown, Goostrey and The Boat, Erbistock, needed to apply a sensitive touch when refurbishing their latest acquisition.

The Dog Inn, Over Peover, Knutsford The Dog Inn, Over Peover, Knutsford

The Dog was built in 1805 by Baronet Thomas Wetenhall, and once comprised three cottages - a grocer’s shop, shoemaker and small farmstead - but it was not until 1860 that it became a public house, known then as the New Inn. Subsequent incarnations saw the inn named the Dog and Rot and, in the 1960s, the Gay Dog. We took the back road from Chelford to revisit the Dog early on a Saturday evening and encountered not one, but two steam traction engines trundling along the way. Sure enough, they turned up at the pub where a third, resplendent in 1914-18 War Department grey was parked up at the front (not to mention the vintage tractors in the car park).

Plaice Plaice

Happily, Kalton & Brown have got it right. They spent time earlier this year lovingly restoring fixtures and fittings and opening up fireplaces and brickwork, as well as adding textures and fabrics (and incredible loos!) to create a sense of history and a series of well-appointed warm and comfortable spaces. We found a tall table and stools by the fireplace (on which stood a jar of doggy treats) in the very attractive, welcoming bar and as early as 6.30pm, the place was becoming very busy indeed.

Anyone familiar with the menu at the Crown will recognise the Dog’s bill of fare, but no matter, for K&B’s executive chef Mathew Parker’s clever takes on classic English dishes based on seasonal local produce have been very well-received in the past, not least by this reviewer. Hence, despite its mammoth proportions - and the menu does warn you - I couldn’t resist starting with the ‘Giant Scotch Egg and Brown Sauce (big!), for £6.95. It is a magnificent beast, perfectly spiced sausage meat enveloping an egg with a runny yolk, all encased in a crispy coating - but in truth it is too big and seriously prejudices (there’s a word for m’learned friends, m’lud) one’s main course options, even though the menu offers some in smaller portions.

Scotch Egg Scotch Egg

Mrs K began more sensibly with delightfully presented pakora soft shell crab ‘popcorn’ (£7.95), delicious morsels of well flavoured crab, dusted with subtle curry spices, deep fried and served with lemon and chive mayonnaise in a porcelain spoon.

That meant she had room to go for the grilled lamb cutlets arranged around rosemary polenta chips with spiced tomato and yoghurt dips (£14.95). The cutlets delivered great flavour if carrying more fat than she would have preferred; the polenta chips were sublime. I chose whole plaice (£13.95) as a supposed lighter option - but it was a whopper! - moist and coming easily off the bone. New potatoes, sugar snap peas and caper butter accompanied leaving the side order of seasonal vegetables (£2.75) -buttered fine beans, mangetouts and carrots - largely redundant.

The Dog Inn, Wellbank Lane, Over Peover, Knutsford, WA16 8UP. Tel 01625 861421.

0 comments

More from Food & Drink

Two mavericks of the food and drink world collided with beautiful results at The Art School, Liverpool, writes Rebekka O’grady.

Read more
Friday, January 12, 2018

Sheridan’s The Rivals was the first ever production at Manchester’s Royal Exchange Theatre. The 1976 staging starred Tom Courtenay and Patricia Routledge and heralded a golden era of exceptional theatre in Manchester.

Read more
Manchester Restaurants
Thursday, January 11, 2018

Digest this mini review in 60 seconds

Read more
Cheshire Restaurants Pubs and Bars
Friday, January 5, 2018

Putting the spotlight on retailers whose business is an important part of community life

Read more
Tuesday, January 2, 2018

Just back from the jungle, Jennie McAlpine on missing her family and serving tea fit for a queen. Mairead Mahon reports

Read more
Afternoon Tea Manchester
Friday, December 29, 2017

Gin tasting is increasing in popularity across the country, we round up some of the best events across Cheshire. Some of these events sell out fairly quickly, but the organisers do often host multiple events throughout the year.

Read more
Gin
Friday, December 29, 2017

Our guide to some of the best food events in the county throughout 2018

Read more
Things to do in Cheshire Summer in Cheshire
Thursday, December 28, 2017

PAmpering and Prosecco were on the menu at the fabulous five star Lowry Hotel - the occasion? An exclusive Cheshire Life luncheon with a difference.

Read more
Cheshire Life Luncheon
 
Great British Holidays advert link

Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to the following newsletters:

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Topics of Interest

Food and Drink Directory

Subscribe or buy a mag today

Cheshire Life Application Link

Local Business Directory

Cheshire's trusted business finder

Job search in your local area



Property Search