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Restaurant review - Manchester House, Spinningfields

PUBLISHED: 00:00 22 June 2018

Manchester House (c) James Brown

Manchester House (c) James Brown

James Brown iso25 Photography

Manchester House restaurant is a high point of the region’s dining scene, in more ways than one, as Janet Reeder discovers.

Lamb wild garlic and sweetbread at Manchester House (c) Emma Wright Lamb wild garlic and sweetbread at Manchester House (c) Emma Wright

There has been a lot of new restaurants opening (and some of them closing) since Manchester House brought fine dining to a whole new level in this city. Literally.

Living Ventures’ restaurant on the 11th and 12th floors of this tower block, with commanding views across the city is now firmly established on the city dining scene. On my recent visit it was great to see that it had lost none of its appeal, with food lovers keen to sample cooking at its most intriguing and every table booked out for the night.

Aiden Byrne’s departure and the subsequent rise of Nathaniel Tofan through the ranks to chef patron status has ensured this fine dining establishment is in pole position for great looking dishes and fantastic flavours.

It is the kind of place to head to for a celebration, or maybe a second date with someone gorgeous with its £75 eight course or £95 12-course dining menus. This was one such special occasion, as we marked editor Louise Taylor’s 10th anniversary at the helm of Cheshire Life.

Passionfruit, basil and meringue at Manchester House (c) Emma Wright Passionfruit, basil and meringue at Manchester House (c) Emma Wright

We sat in the curved seats overlooking the open kitchen, where a brigade of chefs was in deep concentration as they cooked up the eight courses of the main menu, with a vegetarian version for the non meat eaters.

Sipping at the first of the eight glasses of wine (tasting measures) paired with each course, a flinty Chateau Piqe Caillou 2015 while awaiting our Millionaire’s sandwich, layers of foie gras and pistachio, was divine. The anticipation of each course, exquisitely presented and carefully created is all part of the pleasure. You don’t really know what you are going to get, which, of course, adds to the sense of theatre.

A delicious saki accompanied a sensational salmon wasabi and finger lime; there was a smokiness to the salmon which had everyone’s tastebuds in a whirl while the vegetarian beetroot course was a sweet and spicy triumph.

The overwhelming favourite wine from the flight (£45 for eight courses, £75 for 12)was a moreish Greywacke Wild Ferment 2015, an alternative style succulent Sauvignon Blanc full of peachy lemony flavours that lingered on the palate and complimented the mango which accompanied perfectly cooked quail.

Manchester House (c) James Brown Manchester House (c) James Brown

There was a choice of lamb with wild garlic, or halibut with white soy, to bring the savoury section of the menu to a close before a passion fruit basil and meringue pudding bursting with citrus, creamy and a lick of herby flavours brought us all into raptures once again.

Sadly, the meal had to come to a close but with a plate of home-made chocolates accompanying our coffees to round things off we were encouraged to linger a little longer. It’s a good thing we had trains to catch, otherwise the staff might have returned the next morning to find us all demanding breakfast.

Manchester House,18-22 Bridge Street, Spinningfields,

Manchester, M3 3BZ

0161 835 2557
www.manchesterhouse.uk.com

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