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Restaurant review - Brassica Grill, Heaton Moor, Stockport

PUBLISHED: 00:00 17 June 2016 | UPDATED: 09:19 17 June 2016

Brassica Grill

Brassica Grill

Archant

Brassica Grill is a good, lively restaurant at the heart of the Heaton Moor community, writes Janet Reeder

Brassica Grill - Freekah Brassica Grill - Freekah

One way to explore our neighbourhoods is through its bars, cafes and restaurants and there are many of those smaller, independent operations that alone prove a reason to pay a visit.

One such is Brassica Grill on Shaw Road in leafy Heaton Moor. The restaurant is a contemporary space on two levels on a location that was once occupied by the much-missed Tapas bar La Casona and it comes with an excellent pedigree.

Chef Paul Faulkner made his name at the former Modern restaurant at Urbis in Manchester, winning Chef of the Year before a stint in Zinc at the nearby Triangle and a spell in London where he worked at Harvey Nichols, the OXO tower and in Knightsbridge before heading back north to a job at the Albert Square Chophouse.

Those who have visited any of these venues over the years will then know what to expect: modern British dishes with a fresh twist.

Brassica Grill - steak Brassica Grill - steak

For starters we ate Wye valley asparagus andhollandaise, £6. It was grilled Wye valley asparagus, charred purple sprouting broccoli and hollandaise sauce which was exactly what it said on the menu. No surprises there, but the lovely slightly charred flavours that brought out the intensity of fat pieces of asparagus. My only minor quibble is that I’d have preferred the Hollandaise to be poured over the asparagus and not presented in a small dipping pot.

We also had scallops, avocado and mango, £8. The mixture of Scottish scallops, guacamole, mango, cashew nuts and lemon dressing, worked well, classic zingy citrus balanced against sweet plump scallops.

For mains, I was desperate to try freekeh, the new trendy alternative to quinoa, in a dish of toasted freekeh wheat and ricotta, £11.

I loved the toasty nutty flavour of this North African cereal which is supposed to pack a protein punch and the combination of sweet potato and sprouting broccoli with creamy ricotta.

My other half put the massive 16oz rib of beef chop £25 to the test. It was an amazing piece of meat with fantastic flavour that slightly overpowered the bone marrow and onion sauce accompaniment. The ‘real chips’ were heaven.

Using granola as a base for a dessert of white chocolate cheesecake and poached Yorkshire rhubarb was inspired while petit fours of excellent macarons and chocolate, £3, was the perfect sweet ending for the person who had over-indulged on a meaty main course and felt he couldn’t fit in a full pudding.

We visited on a Thursday night and the place was buzzing. Seems like it’s the beating heart of Heaton Moor - or pretty close.

Brassica Grill, 27 Shaw Road, Heaton Moor,Stockport, SK4 4AG. 0161 442 6730 www.brassicagrill.com

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